DIYrr

No Hot Water? Check the Breaker First and Reset It Once

Updated 2026-09-03 · Sources verified 2026-07-20

Have this exact problem? Snap a photo or describe it and get a free step-by-step plan — local prices and the permit answer included, and you can email the plan to yourself. No signup. Get my free plan →

Short answer: no permit to diagnose. Testing elements, relighting a pilot, or resetting a breaker is diagnosis on an existing unit. The full answer and its source are below, with the code requirements and mistakes that trip up Orlando homeowners.

The permit answer

No permit to diagnose. Testing elements, relighting a pilot, or resetting a breaker is diagnosis on an existing unit. If the answer turns out to be a REPLACEMENT, Orange County requires a plumbing permit (and possibly electrical) every time — the water-heater guide carries that full rule.
Source: https://www.orangecountyfl.net/PermitsLicenses/DoINeedaPermit.aspx

Orange County and the City of Orlando run separate permit offices with separate portals — and your mailing address alone doesn't tell you which one covers your home. Check which permit office covers your address →

Key facts before you start

No hot water on an electric unit: check the dedicated 240V breaker FIRST and reset it once — a breaker that trips again is a fault, so stop there. A.O. Smith calls a tripped breaker 'a very common reason for an electric water heater not working' and says to 'Turn off power at the circuit breaker before touching anything.' Before opening any access panel, shut the breaker OFF and confirm it's dead — 'High-voltage electricity can kill, and water heater components remain live even when the unit isn't actively heating.' (A.O. Smith)
Reset the high-limit safety the right way, ONCE: power off, pull the access panel covering the UPPER thermostat, and 'press the reset button firmly until you hear it click.' A click means the water overheated and tripped the cutoff — 'often due to a grounded heating element or a faulty lower thermostat' — so the reset clears the symptom, not the cause. Do NOT keep re-pressing it: 'If the button trips repeatedly or you're uncomfortable performing these steps, contact a professional as repeated tripping indicates serious problems like shorted elements or faulty thermostats.' A repeatedly tripping ECO is a failed-component signal, not a button to keep chasing. (A.O. Smith)
GAS unit, no hot water: the pilot is the usual suspect, and the thermocouple is why it matters — 'The main job of a water heater's thermocouple/thermopile is to power the gas valve and shut down the flow of gas if the pilot light goes out.' A.O. Smith's causes for a pilot that won't stay lit: gas pressure fluctuations, thermocouple/thermopile failure, drafts, insufficient combustible air, residual gas buildup, ignition system failure, and clogged or kinked gas tubes/hoses. Before relighting, 'Wait at least 10 minutes to give any gas built up in the lines a chance to dissipate.' HARD STOP on any gas smell: 'Do not continue if you smell gas' — leave the area and call the gas company; A.O. Smith's separate rule is to shut the gas supply valve off immediately if you smell rotten eggs. Gas line/valve work is licensed trade work in FL, never DIY. (A.O. Smith)
Pin the culprit before buying parts (A.O. Smith Technical Bulletin 36, 'Not Enough Hot Water - Electric'): set both thermostat dials to 130°F, run about 15 gallons and shut the water off — the heater 'should complete heating 15 gallons in approximately 45 minutes,' and the water then 'should fall between 120°F to 140°F'; if it doesn't, check the thermostats. Then keep drawing until roughly 60% of tank capacity is depleted and read it again: it 'should be about 30°F below the temperature in step 6,' and a LARGER drop means 'check the lower element for continuity and the dip tube.' Test each element for continuity across its two terminals with the meter on its lowest ohms range, power OFF. (A.O. Smith Bulletin 36)
Repairable part vs dead tank: a failed heating element 'can cause you to have some hot water, but not enough' and swaps out cheaply — but 'if your water heater is more than 10 years old, leaks around the base of the tank or operates erratically, it's probably time to replace your water heater.' A.O. Smith puts average life at 'about 8 to 12 years.' Leaks at the base of the tank are a dead-tank sign no element or thermostat fixes. (A.O. Smith)
The element / thermostat / ECO repair (breaker OFF) is minor work — but a full TANK replacement is not casual DIY in Orlando: Orange County states 'Water heater? Yes, you need a plumbing permit and possibly an electrical permit.' — the same PERMIT REQUIRED rule as a new install. Route the tank swap and any 240V wiring change to a licensed pro. (Orange County Building Division)

What it costs

DIY: $10–$30 for a thermocouple part alone; other DIY parts (dip tube, relief valve, anode rod) run $10–$50
Hiring it out: $150–$700 typical tank repair; heating element or thermostat replacement $100–$350, thermocouple $100–$325 (parts + labor)
Minimum service call-out fees of $50–$200 may apply; plumbers charge $45–$150/hr
Published national figures (HomeGuide, checked Aug 2026): https://homeguide.com/costs/water-heater-repair-cost. Prices move — the free planner pulls current retail prices for your exact repair.

Get a free step-by-step plan for YOUR exact repair →

DIYrr builds a personalized plan from a photo and description — tools, materials with local prices, and permit guidance. Email it to yourself to keep it. Free for homeowners, no account needed.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit for fixing a water heater with no hot water in Orange County, FL?

No permit to diagnose. Testing elements, relighting a pilot, or resetting a breaker is diagnosis on an existing unit. If the answer turns out to be a REPLACEMENT, Orange County requires a plumbing permit (and possibly electrical) every time — the water-heater guide carries that full rule.

What's the biggest safety risk to know about before fixing a water heater with no hot water?

Reset the high-limit safety the right way, ONCE: power off, pull the access panel covering the UPPER thermostat, and 'press the reset button firmly until you hear it click.' A click means the water overheated and tripped the cutoff 'often due to a grounded heating element or a faulty lower thermostat'. (A.O. Smith)

Are there specific building-code requirements for fixing a water heater with no hot water?

The element / thermostat / ECO repair (breaker OFF) is minor work — but a full TANK replacement is not casual DIY in Orlando: Orange County states 'Water heater? (Orange County Building Division)

What does fixing a water heater with no hot water cost?

DIY: $10–$30 for a thermocouple part alone; other DIY parts (dip tube, relief valve, anode rod) run $10–$50 Hiring it out: $150–$700 typical tank repair; heating element or thermostat replacement $100–$350, thermocouple $100–$325 (parts + labor) Minimum service call-out fees of $50–$200 may apply; plumbers charge $45–$150/hr Published national figures (HomeGuide, checked Aug 2026) — local prices vary, and the free DIYrr planner pulls current retail prices for your exact repair.

Related repairs

Sources

https://www.hotwater.com/info-center/water-heater-not-working.html
https://www.hotwater.com/info-center/technical-bulletins/bulletin-36.html
https://www.hotwater.com/info-center/how-to-light-a-pilot-light.html
https://www.hotwater.com/info-center/when-to-repair-or-replace.html
https://www.orangecountyfl.net/PermitsLicenses/DoINeedaPermit.aspx

This guide is general informational content, not professional or legal advice. Codes and county rules change — confirm permit requirements with your local building department, and use a licensed professional for electrical, gas, structural, or main-line plumbing work.

Built by Karhan Construction & Remodeling, an owner-led repair and remodeling company in Orlando — DIYrr is free whether or not you ever hire us.